Discover Matsushiro - Nagano City's Samurai Town
Around 12km to the south of central Nagano City, Matsushiro is a small town known firstly for its samurai heritage while also home to an open-secret beneath its feet. Once the stronghold of the ruling Sanada clan, Matsushiro was established as an important strategic base during the Sengoku (Warring States) Period and thriving domain of the samurai class during the latter Edo Period. Today, the town’s samurai heritage lives on many excellent Edo Period attractions including Matsushiro Castle Park, the former Sanada Residence and Bunbu Military Academy, other samurai residences, temples, shrines and museums. Yet it is what lies beneath Matsushiro that increasingly attracts as much attention as its heralded samurai past.
Constructed in the final months of World War II, the Zozan Imperial Wartime Tunnels were excavated as the intended headquarters from the Japanese military, government and Imperial Family during the expected Allied invasion. Chosen for distance from the coast, suitable flat terrain surrounded by the natural defense of mountains, ability of the substrata to resist intensive bombing and ability of the local people to keep a secret, the majority of the expansive tunnels and bunkers were completed but had never been used, when the war came to an end.
— Hands on Samurai Experiences in Matsushiro
— Tours and Charters To Matsushiro
The tunnels can still be visited today, a poignant, somber yet very important testament to the huge cost of war on all sides. As such, Matsushiro has a lot more to offer than my first seem so upon arrival. At its best during the blossoms of spring and changing leaves of autumn, Matsushiro makes a great morning, afternoon or daytrip from Nagano City.
WHERE IS MATSUSHIRO?
Matsushiro lies within the boundary of Nagano City, around 11KM from Nagano Station. From the station, local buses run to Matsushiro regularly throughout the day, taking around 30 to 35-minutes to reach the area. A town of true historic importance, Matsushiro boasts multiple attractions linked to its samurai past and (never-realised) role as the chosen location for the Japanese government to retreat to should the country have been invaded at the end of WWII. Once in Matsuhsiro, visitors can walk between the attractions while also enjoying local restaurants and a friendly welcome from the residents that will be thrilled you’ve discovered their home town.
For visitors headed to Matsushiro, upon arrival you might be a little confused about where to go, as the bus stop is located around 5-minutes walk from the center of town. The town is however very easy to walk around and you’ll get your bearings quickly. We recommended heading straight to the Matsushiro Tourist Information Center located next to the Sanada Treasures Museum. Open daily from 09:00 to 17:00, friendly staff are on-hand to assist with your enquiries, and rental bicycles are also available from 09:00 to 16:00. Both adult and kids bikes are in stock – a great way to explore the town.
HIGHLIGHTS OF MATSUSHIRO
Visitors to Matsushiro will certainly notice the distinct six circled ‘Rokumonsen’, found throughout the town on markers stones, walls and tiles and important buildings. Emblem of the Sanada clan, the six circles are in fact coins, to be given to the boatman who grants passage across the river which separates this world from the afterlife.
This symbol represents the willingness of the Sanada clan samurai to give their lives in battles and is a constant reminder of Matsushiro’s heritage. These are some of the highlights waiting to be discovered there:
Matsushiro Castle Park
Typical of most former castles in Japan, Matsushiro Castle Park is now a public park that sits on the foundations and previous site of ruling clan’s stronghold. Once the stronghold of the ruling-Sanada clan, Matsushiro Castle was constructed in the later half of the 16th century by Shingen Takeda. From what was then called Kaizu Csatle, Takeda could defend the region from and attack his adversary, Kenshin Uesugi including at the famous Battles of Kawanakajima.
The castle was taken by the relocating Sanada clan (the most famous member of which is Sanada Yukimura) in 1622 and from that date onward, they ruled Matsushiro until the abolition of the feudal system. Forcibly dismantled under a government policy of abolition in 1871, the remaining buildings were destroyed by fire in 1873 leaving only the foundation walls and surrounding most as a reminder of what stood before.
Several castle buildings which were reconstructed in 2004, including the castle gate, again sit atop the walls, while the interior of the castle grounds boasts numerous cherry blossom trees – a spectacular sight when in bloom each spring – best enjoyed during the Matsushiro Spring Cherry Blossom Festival or again in October, with the Matsushiro Autumn Sanada Clan Jumangoku Festival.
Sanada Family Residence
Built by Sanada Yukinori in 1864 – at a time the original castle was still standing – the Sanada Family Residence first served as home to his mother-in-law, before becoming his own retirement house in his later years. The Sanada Residence continued to be used by the Sanada family until it was donated to Nagano City in 1966. Declared a National Historic Site in 1981, the building consists of fifty-three rooms and extensive gardens.
Recent restoration has returned it to its former glory with elaborate decoration and many original features visible in the private residence.
Matsushiro Bunbu Literary & Military Arts School
A short walk from the Sanada Residence, ‘Matsushiro Bunbu Gakko‘ or ‘Old School for Literary and Military Arts’, was also instituted by Sanada Yukinori.
Opened in 1855, the school educated the sons of high-status samurai, including martial arts, traditional literature and arts, along with Western medicine and military science.
Nine buildings including the main school building and several ‘dojo’ for marital arts training make-up the school, which can be visited purely for sightseeing or to enjoy a range of samurai experiences.
Samurai & Traditional Experiences
Visitors to the Matsushiro Bunbu Gakko can try their hand at a range of skills and practices previously taught to attending students including archery and marital arts or more serene practices such as tea ceremony and flower arrangement. Available from Monday to Friday, bookings must be made in advance. For further information, please refer to our ‘Samurai & Traditional Experiences’ page.
Sanada Treasures Museum
The Sanada Treasures Museum is a large building standing in front of the Sanada Residence and Matsuhiro Bunbu Gakko. The museum houses a large collection of artefacts once owned by the ruling-Sanada clan including ceramics, furniture, manuscripts weaponry and armor.
Vistiors will be drawn to two notable samurai suits of armour while fans of Japan’s unique ‘yokai’ (phantoms or ghosts) culture will enjoy looking over multiple manuscripts that are beautifully decorated with all manner of misbehaving ghouls and curious beings.
Zozan Shrine
Dedicated to Zozan Sakuma (1811-1864), who played an important role in advocating for Japan to open-up to the world after a long period of isolation, Zozan Shrine commemorates an important historic figure. Zozan advocated for the opening of Japan’s ports to Western trade under they rallying cray ‘toyo no dotoku, seijyo no geijutsu’ (eastern ethics, western techniques).
Known for his rare intelligence and education in numerous studies, Zozan was assassinated by a pro-imperial samurai in 1864 – however before that event, he was instrumental in educating many people who would play important roles in ultimately opening Japan to the world and leading to its modernization.
Zozan Imperial Wartime Tunnels
Lying underneath Matsushiro, the Zozan Imperial Wartime Tunnels were constructed during the final nine months of World War II. In anticipation of an eventual allied invasion of the main islands, work began on what was to be an immense system of tunnels and subterranean bunkers that would serve as headquarters for the Japanese military and government.
Today, a 500 meter section of the tunnels is open to the public. Estimated to have required a labor force of around 10,000 – mostly forced Korean labor – the tunnels hold a somber and poignant atmosphere, which must be treated with respect including acknowledgement that many unfortunate souls took their last breath here.
HANDS ON SAMURAI EXPERIENCES IN MATSUSHIRO
Visitors to the Matsushiro Bunbu Literary & Military School have the option of trying their hand a number of experiences once taught at the school to the sons of samurai and more generally, some of Japan’s most popular traditional practices. The complete list of available activities is quite extensive but is currently posted online in Japanese only. If you need any assistance contacting the organization, please let us know and we will be able to provide more information on the variety of options available. For international visitors, the following activities might be of interest:
Kyudo / Japanese Archery
Known as ‘kyudo’, traditional Japanese archery uses a large bow that takes poise, patience, and skill to handle well. Visitors to the school can try their hand at this challenging but enjoyable practice, as they are led by an instructor through the motions and technique necessary to hit a target around 30 metres away.
Group sizes are limited to a maximum of 10 people, and workshops last for 1-2 hours.
Kobudo / Martial Arts
Martial arts training was an important element of the education of the sons of samurai and visitors to the school can enjoy a ‘kobudo’ workshop aimed at beginners. Also lasting between 1 to 2 hours, the workshop is available and fun for both children and adults.
Chado / Tea Ceremony
Most visitors to Japan will have at least heard of tea ceremony before arriving here. You can experience your own “Bukesado” samurai style tea ceremony at the school, available for groups of up to 15 people.
Ikebana / Flower Arrangement
In-keeping with the slower and studied approach of tea ceremony, ‘ikebana’ is another popular traditional past-time that can be learned at the school and then practiced at home. Classes take 1 to 2 hours and can cater for groups of up to 15 people.
VISIT THE ZOZAN TUNNELS
Formally referred to as ‘Matsushiro Daihonei’ or the ‘Matsushiro Underground Imperial Headquarters’, construction of the tunnels and extensive subterranean network of bunkers and living quarters began on November 11th 1944. Intended to serve as the headquarters of the Japanese military and government should the Allied Forces invade – as was expected – the tunnels were never completed nor used at the time of Japan’s surrender on August 15th 1945.
The location was chosen for various reasons including its relative flatness, proximity to an airfield, the natural defensive barrier of the surrounding mountains, the solid substrata – suitable for excavation but considered able to withstand 10-tonne bombs of B-29s –, and the belief that local Nagano residents were pure hearted and would not reveal the location to anyone if entrusted with such a duty.
At the time of surrender, around 75% of the intended subterranean network had however been completed – amounting to 5900 squared metres of space through the extensive tunnels and bunkers requiring excavation of an estimated 2,000,000 cubic feet of soil and rock. Excavation was undertaken by an estimated 10,000 forced labours, most of whom were Korean prisoners of war or indentured workers. It is also estimated that around 1,500 died during the construction. Korean comfort women were also on-site, adding further poignancy and political sensitivity to any visit or interpretation of the tunnels.
Today, visitors can still enter the tunnels and have access to a 500 metre stretch of the facility. The tunnels themselves are mostly bare, with occasional markings left by the Korean workers including some names. A small museum sits just outside the tunnel entrance which provides information about the conditions endure by the laborers.
Following Japan’s surrender to the Allied Forces, documents relating to the tunnels were destroyed limiting our understanding of what took place there and the nature of daily life. Preservation of the tunnels is an important reminder of the horrendous cost of war on all sides, and most particularly, the conditions endure by those involved in their construction. A unique site, the Zozan Imperial Wartime Tunnels are much more than a tourist attraction and should be treated with the respect required of such a sensitive site.
FESTIVALS IN MATSUSHIRO
Located so close to central Nagano, Matsushiro is easy to visit for those staying in town. And if you are interested in events and festivals, it pays to check the event schedule for Matsushiro – there are a few things that happen every year that are definitely worth a visit if you are here around the same time!
Matsushiro Spring Cherry Blossom Festival
Known as ‘hanami’ or ‘flower-viewing’, enjoying the cherry blossoms of spring is perhaps the quintessential Japanese experience. The Matsushiro Spring Cherry Blossom Festival takes place on the second Saturday in April, within the grounds of Matsushiro Castle Park. The majority of the original castle was removed in the late-19th century before fire destroyed all remaining original buildings, leaving only the stone walls and surrounding moat as testament to what once stood.
Several buildings were restored in 2004 and the inner sanctuary now boasts many mature cherry blossoms trees, the focus of this very local spring festival. Running from 09:00 in the morning, families and friends head to the park for ‘hanami’ (flower-viewing) and to enjoy the events and food vendors selling spring snacks and drinks. At night, the grounds of the castle park glow pink and red as around 500 paper lanterns offer soft light underneath the trees.
The castle grounds are one of Nagano’s best-known blossom-viewing spots, so even if you miss the festival, make sure to head over to enjoy the beautiful trees and poetic sight of their petals showering the park’s surrounding castle moat – a unique and beautiful sight.
Matsushiro Autumn Sanada Clan Jumangoku Festival
The Matsushiro Autumn Sanada Clan Jumangoku Festival takes place on the second weekend of October – on both Saturday and Sunday – the festival celebrates Matsushiro’s samurai heritage and the importance of the former rulers, the wealthy Sanada clan. Originally based in Ueda, the Sanada clan relocated to Matsushiro in the 17th century and inherited the town’s castle – then called Kaizu Castle – lands and industry. Instantly recognisable by the distinctive deep red of their samurai armour and six black circles of their ‘rokumonsen’ emblem, the Sanada clan played an important in Japanese history.
Centred around the grounds of Matsushiro Castle Park, the first day is full of traditional music and dance performances with people of local food vendors selling tasty snacks and drinks. On the second day, the festival really comes to life with a day of traditional artillery displays, taiko and dance performances and ceremonial parade of samurai and their attendants in full regalia.
Prior to the parade, an impression reenactment of gunnery using traditional flintlock rifles takes place outside the castle walls – an impressive sight with each gunner dressed in the distinctive red armour of the Sanada clan. Most of the armour worn by participants will have been crafted by themselves, taking an exhaustive amount of time and reflecting the town’s deep pride in their samurai past.
TOURS & CHARTERS TO MATSUSHIRO
If you are interested in visiting Matsushiro, why not participate in one of our tours which visits the area? With multiple options, we are sure that we can make your day fun and educational, while you learn about the way of the Samurai. Please see below for more details:
1 Day Tour
| 1-Day Samurai Food & Life Tour: Oyaki, Samurai Residences, and Katana Practice | |
| Period | All Year Round |
| Time | 10:30-17:45 |
| Meeting Place | Nagano Station Hakuba (winter only) |
| Adult Rate | ¥17,800 |
| Child Rate | ¥11,000 |
This exciting tour starts off with a visit to an Oyaki Factory, where you get a chance to make your own! Oyaki is a kind of wheat bun filled with vegetables of various sorts (especially popular is nozawana – mustard greens), and is one of Nagano’s regional specialties. After filling your belly, you will be brought to Matsushiro town proper, where you will have a chance to see some Samurai houses before participating in your own martial arts training at the Bunbu Military Academy. This tour is great for families or anyone who wants to learn more about the lifestyle of the Samurai!
2 Day Tour
| 2-Day Tour: Snow Monkeys, Samurai Experience & Zenko-ji ‘Shukubo’ Stay | |
| Period | All Year Round |
| Time | Day1: 11:45-17:45 Day2: 09:55-17:35 |
| Meeting Place | Nagano Station |
| Adult Rate | ¥48,000 ~ |
For those looking for a longer stay in Nagano, this 2-Day tour provides a visit to all of the best attractions around the city including Zenkoji Temple, the Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park, Matsushiro. Starting the first day with Samurai training at the Bunbu Military Academy, you will then be checked in to your Shukubo accommodation inside the grounds of Zenkoji Temple. Here, you can learn more about the practices of the temple while staying in a pilgrims inn. The next day will have you take a guided tour of Zenkoji Temple, before lunch and a visit to the Snow Monkey Park, with your guide saying their goodbyes at the end of the day at Nagano Station.
Of course, if you have your own plans in mind, we are more than happy to offer our private charter services to take you where you need to go. With friendly, safe drivers and clean vehicles you can rest assured your journey will be relaxing and smooth as you travel to each point in your itinerary. You can even add a guide and make your own private tour! For more information on pricing and availability, please click HERE.
